COUTURE??? WHAT WAS ANAMIKA THINKING???

THE FIRST question I wanted to ask Anamika Khanna after her couture (???) showing at the HDIL India Couture Week was - "What were you thinking???"

My friend and fashion critic, Karmik Varma has written on his much-read website http://www.stylekandy.com/ a few words which I would like to reproduce verbatim: "Anamika showcased gowns in layers and pleats and saris with intricate screen prints. Metallic gold patented with black seemed to define her story of colours. The prints were refreshing, colourful hues, splashed meticulously against the white fabric. All her silhouettes remained fitted throughout the body and frilled only at the legs. However, every garment was very similar to the other, quite in contrast from the guideline of couture. Swimming suit leotards coupled with the golden attire called for a debatable combination."

Karmik has hit the nail on the head, bang on. Most people (except for a few celebs like Sanjay Leela Bhansali and Anil Kapoor in the front row) were totally flummoxed by her collection which was definitely pret, bordering on diffusion. But couture??? It certainly was not.

Our verdict: The organisers need to define the parameters of what couture really is, like they do in Paris.

VIVE PALLAVI !!!

THE ROMANCE of the Palace of Versailles was recreated in Mumbai at the fourth day of the HDIL India Couture Week by Mumbai-based designer Pallavi Jaikishen.

Pallavi is (deservedly) one of Mumbai's first couturiers and is considered a doyenne by the fraternity. And true to this moniker, the petite designer showed she was big on talent with a dazzling show that was short and sweet, and which actually had the audience asking for more when she took the final bow with misty eyes and a well-deserved standing ovation.

Doing what she does best, Pallavi draped her models (all of whom looked like "Indian Maharani meets Marie Antoinette") in delicate lace and sensuous satins, embroidered with romantic floral motifs - another Pallavi trademark. Of course, the designer's choice of colours was extraordinary - teal blue, rose pink, old leaf - and she thankfully stayed away from too much of white, red or black, which most designers (so far) seemed to have concentrated on at this couture week.

And finally, what stood out the most was the exotic setting and the drama that was involved in showing off these fabulous couture pieces. The show opened with two liviered footmen (in white wigs and tail coats) opening the "palace" doors to the "society" queens who would then walk the ramp like they were strolling in a perfectly manicured garden.

Antique-looking wrought-iron benches and statues of cherubs were strategicaly placed on the ramp as the models sat on them and posed, making small talk as society ladies do, and even feasting on chocolates that another footman was serving to them and to guests seated just off the ramp. Some of the models air-kissed each other as they crossed paths on the runway while others simply acted out admiration for the garments the other was wearing.

Our verdict: The most chic and concise show till date at couture week. Vive Pallavi!